Oil Change

I drained all the oil the other day while waiting on shims to do my valve inspection/adjustment at 11136 miles.

I'm switching to synthetic and after reading through some forum discussions I decided on Rotella 5W-40 full synthetic and went with the WIX Oil Filter(part #24941).

Here are a couple diagrams to help aid in the oil changing process.

I checked my oil screen for the first time and it wasn't too dirty, but there was a staple in it... like a small paper binding staple.  Which is kind of scary, but it's out now.

Carburator Syncing Device

As I will need to synchronize my carburetors after doing the valves I looked around for the tools I would need to get the job done.  I found I would need a way to measure the vacuum of the carburetors   I found a DIY over at ninja250.org and followed the directions on this page.

Here is what I ended up with.

I used blue food coloring just to make sure my seals are air tight, but I'll have to use green for the real deal.

Rear Tire Hugger Install

1.  Remove left side passenger foot peg bracket. (10mm)

2.  Loosen rear brake line bolt(12mm) and rotate the line out of the way.  Loosen the bolt only enough to rotate it or a decent amount of fluid will come out.  Tighten it  back up so it stays.

3.  Wash swing arm where the 3M outside strength double sided tape will adhere. Use alcohol and/or soap & water.

4.  Unscrew the front bolt(10mm) on the chain guard.
5.  Make sure front bolt on chain guard fits easily through bolt hole in the tire hugger.  If not roll some sand paper up and widen the hole a little.
6.  Fit tire hugger. Make sure everything lines up.
7.  Pull tire hugger off and remove backing on the 3M outside strength double sided tape.
8.  Refit the tire hugger to the previous position and press down to make the tape adhere.

9.  Screw the front bolt on the chain guard back in using the provided soft washer.
10.  Loosen the rear brake line bolt, rotate back to the original position, and tighten it back up.

11.  Reinstall left side passenger foot peg bracket.

Done!

Coolant Flush

1.  Place a bucket underneath and unscrew the first coolant drain bolt(10mm).

2.  Place a bucket underneath and unscrew the second drain bolt(8mm). If you take it out slowly you can get most, if not all, of the coolant to come out the other drain, thus saving you from having to clean too much off of your engine.

 3.  Now unscrew the radiator cap (not pictured).  Then pour distilled water into the radiator until the water coming out isn't green anymore.  It should take almost one gallon.

4.  Place one of the buckets underneath the reservoir tank and remove the top hose.

 5.  Remove the bottom hose while holding a funnel underneath to direct the coolant away from the engine.

6.  Unscrew the reservoir filler cap leaving the hoses disconnected.  Then pour distilled water into the reservoir until the liquid coming out isn't green anymore.

That's where I stopped because I'm waiting to fill it back up until I'm done checking/adjusting the valve clearances.  Here are the steps to refill the coolant though for future reference.

1. Screw both drain bolts back in and torque to 87 inch-pounds (7.25 foot-pounds).
2. Connect both of the hoses back onto the reservoir.
3. Slowly fill the radiator with coolant up to the filler neck. The slower the better as to avoid creating air bubbles. Leave the cap off.
4. Fill the reservoir tank to the max line with coolant. Leave the cap off.
5. Start the engine and continuously tap on the hoses on both sides of the radiator to get rid of air bubbles. Do this for roughly 30 seconds.
6. Stop the bike.
7. Fill the radiator up to the filler neck with coolant. Install the radiator cap.
8. Check the reservoir tank level and fill back to the max line if needed. Install the reservoir tank cap.
9. Start the bike and keep it running until the radiator fan comes on then turn it off and refill the reservoir to the max line.
10. Clean any spilled coolant and you're done.

Custom Rear Tire Hugger

I saw a rear tire hugger for a red 250 on a forum a while back.

I liked it so much I contacted Scott who makes them.  He agreed to make one for me and painted it to match my Kawi green 250.

I can't wait for it to get here so I can install it.  If you're interested in one you can contact Scott directly at swings5@comcast.net.

Work I've Done to My Ninja 250r Recently

Here is a list of things I have recently done to my Ninja.

 -replaced fuel filter(used a Briggs & Stratton found here)

 -added a louder horn(Fiamm 72112 Freeway Blaster Horn Low Tone found here) wired directly to the battery through a 12v 40amp 4 pin relay

 -wired a garage door opener to my high beam wire using this DIY

 -secured my cheapo watch under my ignition switch on the triple tree using outside double sided 3M tape

 -replaced the stock chain with green chain I found off Ebay back in 2011(here is the same chain on Amazon)

 -installed heater elements on the main and passenger seat(front: WarmSeats Waterproof Seat Heater, rear: I used the heat element from a grip warmer kit found on Ebay)

 -installed heated grips with the same kit as above
 -switched the stock front brake fluid cap for one with the Ninja logo on it found on Ebay

 -wired in a cigarette outlet

 -installed an accessory fusebox following this DIY

I still have to make a bracket for the switches and cigarette outlet, change the oil, inspect/adjust valve clearances, top off coolant, and synchronize the carbs.

Valve Adjustment

Well I was reading through some forums and I found out I'm overdue for a valve clearance inspection/adjustment. I've red-lined my bike a dozen or so times and ride fairly aggressive at times, so I don't want to push the maintenance out any further. The service manual says 12,000 miles and I'm getting pretty close.

I figured I'd do it now before it gets warm enough to ride and spare myself missing a week or two of riding.  I read some DIY's and found out I would need shims, a micrometer, and feeler gauges. I also printed out the service manual I downloaded here.

 

I printed the service manual front and back and it's still over 1.5 inches thick.  I think I will three hole punch it and place it in a binder later.